Dormancy To be constructed

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https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/27257#page/248/mode/1up

https://www.biodiversitylibrary.org/item/217490#page/260/mode/1up Timing the Move Bad timing seems to be the most frequent error the home owner makes in moving existing plants from one location to another. Most amateurs assume that the plant needs to be in leaf, but the stresses on the root system that are imposed by the lush foliage lessen the plant’s chance of survival. Transplanting Stress \ 233 Plants that have been growing in naturally existing soil are most successfully moved when they are in a dormant or quiescent state. In north temperate areas this can occur at two seasons. The first begins any time after spring soil thaw and lasts until the plant begins active vegetative growth (the best rule is “the sooner the better”). The reason for transplanting as soon as the soil can be worked is that the plant produces the most active root growth when soil and air temperatures are low, and before vegetative growth begins. Re- search indicates that once top growth commences, root growth slows and in some cases halts. Early transplanting wiQ allow maximum root growth to supply necessary water to unfolding leaves, stems and flowers. The second transplanting season begins in late summer after all vegetative portions have expanded and the tissue has hardened off, therefore requiring less water. Fall transplanting may be most ad- vantageous for those plants considered to be reliably hardy because it will permit active root growth in late fall and again in early spring before new vegetative growth begins. In the autumn it is considered optimum to await frost and defoliation of most deciduous plants. However, in northern areas where weather is severe and deep soil penetration of frost may damage semi- anchored plants, early trans- planting prior to defoliation may be preferable. At the Arnold Arboretum we begin moving needled evergreens in early September and try to accomplish this task before the latter part of October. During late October the first killing frost generally occurs, bringing active vegetative growth to a halt. As the soil and air tem- peratures go down, active root growth begins again and allows some degree of anchorage before frost penetrates the soil deeply. Addi- tional root growing time can be achieved with the use of a thick basal mulch around the plants. In northern areas with low winter temperatures and sweeping winds some plants should not be transplanted in fall. This group in- cludes all broadleaved evergreens, any plant that is considered to be marginally hardy, and young, poorly rooted specimens. Cold sweeping winds can dry out the evergreens which, even under ideal conditions, have problems with water uptake from frozen soils. Plants of marginal hardiness are prone to freezing; spring transplant- ing permits them to have a whole growing season to store carbohy- drates for increasing winter hardiness. This additional growing time also benefits semi-anchored plants by allowing them to root fully. The nursery industry has increased the planting season by grow- ing plants in large containers or digging them with a soil ball and wrapping the soil with burlap. As a result it is now possible to install plants at any time during the growing season, but these modem methods have not reduced the need for good follow-up care.